Darjeeling - Champagne of teas

Darjeeling and it’s early April. The cold weather has receded, at least for now, and Chowrasta, the town’s “square” which sits on top of the ridge is bathed in warm hazy sunshine. It is busy, there are many visitors, some foreign, but many travelling up from the oppressive increasing heat of the plains and together with the locals they occupy the benches which line the square. “Square” is something of a politeness as it is an irregular roughly rectangular space but it is much loved by the townspeople and a thoroughfare for many. It also has the singular benefit of being traffic free and the main noise is the hum of voices or the occasional clopping of horse hoofs as the ponies carry children and sometimes adults on pleasure rides around Observatory Hill.

Today the mountains are invisible and hidden by the mist, so attention is concentrated on events in the square: the children as they cross it on the way home from school, the chai wallah as he does his rounds, the changing of places on benches as the sitters tire and move on – and the small shops around part of the perimeter. These are mainly old buildings, remnants perhaps from Raj days, and they include within their number new additions: tea shops. Passing by, the signs are appearing in their windows – “First flush now in” – an open invitation to enter and taste.

It is still early season and to date there are only five teas. Three are high end whilst the rest are described as decent teas. We go for one of the high end ones from Barnesbeg, a lovely tea garden a few thousand feet below Darjeeling. First the tea must be smelt, cold and in the caddy or else a small amount of tea leaves warmed and swirled around in cupped hands. The ritual brewing takes place and the tea leaves then separated from the tea which comes in a clear pot, light and golden. The bouquet of the leaves is presented separately for a further experiencing by the nose. We are told the first sip of our tea is delicious, light and floral, but it induces a desire for the next sip and then the next and the experience changes as the tea cools. First flush Darjeeling is indeed the champagne of teas!

Marilyn Adams

Chairperson

Darjeeling Children’s Trust